Introducing India ( My Country)

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Fatehpur Sikri

This magnificent fortified ghost city, 40km west of Agra, was the short-lived capital of the Mughal empire between 1571 and 1585, during the reign of Emperor Akbar. Akbar visited Sikri to consult the Sufi saint Shaikh Salim Chisti, who predicted the birth of an heir to the Mughal throne. When the prophecy came true, Akbar built his new capital here. Although a brilliant Indo-Islamic masterpiece, the city was erected in an area that suffered from water shortages and was abandoned shortly after Akbar’s death. The well-preserved palace buildings and the still-used mosque are a superb reminder of the Mughals at their architectural peak, and you can wander around other ruins scattered behind the mosque and the mint.

Most people visit this World Heritage site as a day trip from Agra, but you can stay in the nearby town, and the red sandstone palaces are at their most atmospheric at sunset.

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Fort Aguada & Candolim

The beaches of Candolim and Sinquerim (below Fort Aguada) are popular with charter and upmarket tourists. The pace is a little less frenetic than at Calangute and Baga up the coast. Independent travellers are rare here, most of the hotels being favoured by package-tour operations. The beach at Fort Aguada is notable for its rocky and attractive headland, while Candolim has the rusting hulk of a grounded tanker, the River Princess – it’s not a very pretty princess. Some of the best-value beach accommodation in Goa lines the quiet back lanes of both villages.

The post office and banks are located on Fort Aguada Rd, and internet access is available at Online World (per hr Rs 30; 9am-11pm).

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Gandhinagar

Gandhinagar forms a striking contrast to Ahmedabad, with big broad avenues and lots of greenery. This is where state politicians live, in large, well-fortified houses. Although Ahmedabad became the capital of Gujarat when the old state of Mumbai was split, this new capital was planned 32km northeast on the west bank of the Sabarmati River. Named Gandhinagar after Mahatma Gandhi, it’s India’s second planned city after Chandigarh. The secretariat was moved here in 1970.

The reason for visiting is spectacular Akshardham Temple (Ja Rd, Sector 20; 9.30am-6.30pm Tue-Sun), belonging to the wealthy Hindu Swaminarayan group. Built by nearly 1000 artisans, it is an elaborately carved building constructed out of 6000 tonnes of pink sandstone and surrounded by manicured lawns and perfect trees.

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Gangtok

Sikkim’s capital is mostly a functional sprawl of multistorey concrete boxes. But true to its name (meaning ‘hill top’) these are steeply layered along a sharp mountain ridge. When clouds clear (typically at dawn), views are inspiring, with Khangchendzonga poking its pointy white nose above the western horizon. Gangtok’s manmade attractions are minor, but it’s not a bad place to wait out a day or two while organising trekking permits or trips to the north.

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Gangtok to Pelling

There are three main routes from the capital to Sikkim’s main tourist hub. The longest and least interesting loops a long way south to Rongphu, then back via Melli, Jorethang and Legship. Fortunately this is normally only used by public sumos when landslides block the two possible routes via Singtam and Ravangla. Both of these are highly attractive, especially the longer, little-used route via Yangang (hired jeep only), which approaches Ravangla along an extremely dramatic cliff-edge drive around the precipitous base of Maenam Hill.

Ravangla makes a good tea stop. Better still, if you have a chartered vehicle, have lunch 3km west of Ravangla at the lonely Mt Narsing Resort (9733084105; mains Rs 30-75), a rustic bungalow place with fabulous tree-framed views towards the mountains. You could also sleep here in simple bungalows (s/d Rs 550/850) with shared amenities or more luxurious cottages (Rs 1600/3100)

[Times]

Ganpatipule

Ganpatipule, on the coast 375km south of Mumbai, has several kilometres of almost perfect beaches and clean waters that leave those of Goa for dead. For much of the year life plods along very slowly but woe betide anyone coming here for a bit of peace and quiet during the Indian holidays (Diwali is especially busy). These tourists haven’t come for the hedonism of sun and sand though, but rather for the town’s seaside temple (235223; 5am-9pm) with its Swayambhu Ganpati, or ‘naturally formed’ monolithic Ganesh (painted a lurid orange), allegedly discovered 1600 years ago.

Foreign tourists do not frequent Ganpati*pule often and you are likely to be an object of considerable curiosity. For a quieter patch of sand, head towards the beach in front of the MTDC Tent Resort.

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Gaya

Gaya is a raucous, dusty town about 100km south of Patna. Although it’s a centre for Hindu pilgrims, it’s really only of interest to travellers as the transport hub for Bodhgaya, 13km away. Pilgrims come here to offer pinda (funeral cake) at the ghats along the river, and perform a lengthy circuit of the holy places around Gaya to free their ancestors from bondage to the earth.

There’s a Bihar State tourist office (2420155; 10am-8pm Mon-Sat) and a State Bank of India ATM at the train station. The nearest foreign exchange for cash and travellers cheques is in Bodhgaya. There are several internet cafés (per hr Rs 20) along Swarajayapur Rd.

[Times]

Goa

Those who haven’t visited Goa tend to imagine it as some kind of Indian Costa Brava but with more cosmic karma and, thanks to this image, many people vow never to set foot there. However, Goa, like everywhere in India, is never quite what you expect. In places the infamous hash-fuelled days of Goa’s golden hippy years are still alive and kicking, especially around Vagator & Chopora, while in others, like Calangute & Baga, the all-inclusive package holiday is king. But these are two very narrow sides of the Goan experience and anyone who spends much time here will discover that Goa contains more variety and vitality than almost anywhere else in India. Head into Panaji (Panjim), one of India’s smallest and most likeable state capitals, and, instead of self-contained tourist resorts and trinket-selling dreadlocks, you’ll discover a Portuguese pantry of flaking architectural delicacies spiced up with Indian exuberance. Inland, you can stand in greener-than-green fields picking vanilla pods, bathe with elephants or visit market towns like Mapusa.

The main draws of Goa are the beaches, such as Anjuna, which are every bit as cliché-beautiful as they’re supposed to be, but just as much of an attraction is its intriguing fusion of colonial Portugal and modern India. There is almost nowhere else in India where the influence of the former colonial overlords remains as strong as it does in Goa and it’s not at all unusual to find crucifixes hanging on walls next to posters of Shiva and groups of elderly Goan men conversing in Portuguese. Wander the majestic, time-worn cathedrals and basilicas of Old Goa, for a fascinating insight into this colonial legacy. Goa may not be as cool as it once was but it’s certainly just as magical.

[Times]

Gokarna



Sun worshippers and Hindu pilgrims rub shoulders in the low-key village of Gokarna (Cow’s Ear), 50km south of Karwar. The quaint village is a holy place, which you should bear in mind if sunbaking is your objective. Modesty is your best policy; keep shoulders and knees covered, and take your parties to the out-of-town beaches.

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Gondal

Gondal is a small, leafy town, 38km south of Rajkot, that sports a string of palaces on a gentle river. Once capital of a 1000-sq-km princely state, it was run by the Jadeja Rajputs, later overtaken by the Mughals, then recovered in the 1650s. Maharaja Bhagwat Singhji ruled in the 19th century and was a progressive social reformer who, among other things, introduced compulsory education for both sexes

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Gopalpur-On-Sea

Gopalpur-on-Sea is a seaside town the British left to slide into history until Bengali holidaymakers discovered its attractions in the 1980s. Prior to this, it had a noble history as a seaport with connections to Southeast Asia.

It’s no paradise, but its uncrowded, peaceful and relatively clean beach is great for a stroll and a paddle, or you can just relax and watch the fishing boats come and go.

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Great Himalayan National Park

This 750-sq-km national park (01902-265320; www.greathimalayannationalpark.com; per day Indian/foreigner Rs 10/200, camera Rs 50/150) provides a home to 180 species of birds and rare mammals, such as black bears, brown bears, musk deer and the ever-elusive snow leopard. As well as conserving wildlife, the park runs programmes that provide a sustainable living for people living on the periphery of the conservation area.

Wildlife is best spotted on a five- to eight-day organised trek, accompanied by a park ranger. Arrangements can be made through the park rangers at the Sai Ropa Tourist Centre, 5km before Gushaini, or with private companies in Manali. You need travel insurance that covers emergency helicopter evacuations.

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Gulmarg

About 52km southwest of Srinagar, the pine-fringed meadow at Gulmarg – literally ‘Meadow of Flowers’ – is a busy ski resort in winter and a popular walking resort in summer. The Alpine landscape is a marked contrast to the flat, poplar-lined fields that cover the bottom of the Kashmir Valley, but don’t expect a quiet retreat. Gulmarg is packed with domestic tourists year-round and most of the meadow is given over to a golf course that doubles as a training slope during the ski season.

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Guwahati

The northeast’s main gateway city isn’t beautiful, but green, temple-topped hillocks rise curiously above Guwahati’s noisy smog, and its tanks (artificial lakes) and riverbanks are pleasant. Come here to arrange tours to other northeast states then move on swiftly.

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Gwalior

Gwalior is famous for its medieval hilltop fort, described by the Mughal emperor Babur as ‘the pearl amongst fortresses in India’. For travellers making a detour from the Golden Triangle, the slow-paced town sprawling around the hill is a good introduction to an un-touristy part of central India. Jai Vilas Palace, home of the Scindia Museum, is the historic seat of the Scindias, one of the country’s most revered families.